If there were a hall of fame for delicious, comforting dishes ― the kind that make you want to lick the bowl ― meatballs in sauce would be inducted.
The problem for the selection committee would be agreeing on a recipe. The best-known is the Italian-American classic: equal parts beef, pork and veal in a thick “red sauce." But it’s not necessarily the best version. We’ve sampled some stellar meatball dishes made by Dallas chefs that are equally delicious.
At Nonna, chef Julian Barsotti uses ground chicken and pork belly to make meatballs. Besides topping tortellini and other pastas, his meatballs in basil-tomato sauce also star in specials like lasagna and timpano. At Mille Lire, chef Giuliano Matarese serves an appetizer of lamb meatballs in tomato sauce, perched on a bed of spinach or broccoli rabe. It’s served with bread, for sopping up the sauce, and could stand alone as an entree.
Matt Pikar, chef-owner of Nora, proves that Italians don’t have a monopoly on addictive meatball dishes. His beef koftas (Afghan meatballs) in a richly spiced onion-tomato sauce drew national attention last year, after Guy Fieri featured them on his Food Network show, Diners Drive-ins and Dives.
Read on for the recipes and stories behind these outstanding meatball dishes. Although beloved year-round, they’re especially comforting in winter. Making a double batch pays off because the leftovers are terrific.
Nonna Restaurant’s Chicken and Pork Belly Meatballs in Red Sauce
Chef Julian Barsotti has made many versions of meatballs at his four restaurants (Nonna, Carbone’s, Sprezza and Fachini). He stumbled upon his favorite version at Nonna when searching for a way to use surplus chicken thighs and legs. Mixing the ground chicken with equal parts ground pork belly proved “the perfect combination,” Barsotti says. “I prefer it to the beef-pork version. It’s round and delicious, with a more nuanced profile, and the leg and thigh meat braise really well,” he says. Barsotti notes that golf ball-sized meatballs are preferred for braising ― going smaller could sacrifice tenderness.
The meatballs show up in weekly specials at Nonna, with a variety of sauces. The restaurant’s most classic preparation is simmered in a tomato sauce that’s seasoned with a basil and red chile-infused oil. Barsotti often serves it on tortellini at Nonna (smashing the meatballs), and over penne when cooking for his kids at home.
He recommends making a double batch, using half as a base layer for baked ziti in béchamel sauce. The contrast of rich and creamy ziti with the bright tomato sauce and meatball layer makes this the kind of dish we crave in winter (think of it as an easier alternative to lasagna). It’s ideal for entertaining, especially if your guests aren’t always punctual. “It can sit for up to an hour” after removing from the oven, Barsotti says. “It’s critical to let it rest for at least 30 minutes before serving, so that it coalesces.”
Mille Lire’s Lamb Meatballs in Tomato Sauce
The lamb meatballs at Mille Lire have been a signature dish since the restaurant’s opening in 2017. Chef Giuliano Matarese, a native of Naples, Italy, says the dish is inspired by his mother, who cooked at her restaurant and at home. “The basic tomato sauce is exactly the same as hers, but using lamb was my ingredient upgrade. I like lamb because it has more intense flavor than other meats,” he says. The grandson of a butcher, Matarese grew up exposed to a wide range of meats and cuts.
At dinner, Matarese serves the meatballs over broccoli rabe, sprinkled with feta cheese, baked in individual casseroles topped with pizza crust. When customers break into the crust, he says he hopes the aroma in the steam “gives them the same emotion I had opening the lid on a pot” at Sunday meals when he was a child.
At lunch, the dish gets a less dramatic presentation — no pizza crust — but it’s every bit as delicious, and easier to prepare at home. The meatballs come in a bowl, layered over a bed of spinach sautéed in oil with garlic and chile flakes. A mixture of black pepper, Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino cheese tops the dish off. It’s served with lots of bread on the side to mop up the sauce, even after the last meatball is eaten. “In Italian, we call that scarpetta — when you clean the bowl by scraping crunchy bread over the leftover tomato sauce and any bits of meatball,” Matarese says.
Kofta Chalao
These spiced beef meatballs, cooked in a complex sauce, have a big following at chef Matt Pikar’s Afghan restaurant, Nora, which relocated to the Bishop Arts District last year. The key to this dish is its mesmerizing blend of spices: coriander, cumin, turmeric and paprika. The tomato-onion sauce gets additional depth from sun-dried tomatoes, dried plums and cilantro, and body from the addition of cooked, split yellow lentils.
The Afghan style of meatball-making is quite different from the traditional Italian method. For one, there’s no such thing as over-mixing the meatball mixture, Pikar says. “The spices have to be well distributed into the meat, so you need to mix the meatball [ingredients] thoroughly with your hands,” he says. The result is a denser style, traditional Afghan meatball, or kofta.
Another difference from Italian-style meatballs is that the koftas are not browned before they simmer in the sauce. Pikar says it’s important not to stir the sauce for 10 or 15 minutes after adding the meatballs, otherwise the meatballs may break apart.
At the restaurant, Pikar often blends the sauce to make it smooth before adding the meatballs and cilantro. At home, he skips the blending for a chunkier ― and easier ― variation.
Pikar’s recipe for kofta chalao may be more flavorful than versions made in many parts of Afghanistan. “High-quality spices aren’t always available throughout the country. A lot of them are hard to find,” he says.
Nonna’s Chicken and Pork Belly Meatballs in Red Sauce
1/2 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for coating a baking sheet
1/4 medium red onion, diced small
1 large garlic clove, sliced
3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
1 heaping teaspoon chile flakes
1 1/2 teaspoons anise seed
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 cup panko
2 tablespoons whole milk
1 large egg yolk (if doubling recipe, use 1 large egg)
3/4 pound ground skinless chicken thighs (ask the butcher to grind it for you)
3/4 pound ground fresh pork belly (ask the butcher to do this for you)
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (plus additional for serving)
1 recipe Basil Tomato Sauce (recipe follows)
1 cup chicken broth (preferably bone broth)
1 tablespoon butter
8 large basil leaves, chopped
In a small sauté pan over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, garlic, parsley, chile flakes, anise seed and black pepper. Add the oregano by rubbing the dried leaves between the palms of your hands to help release the flavor. Cook for about 2 minutes. Add 1/4 cup water and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed, and the onion and garlic are soft. Transfer the onion mixture to a small mixing bowl and set aside to cool.
Heat oven to 400 F.
In a small bowl, soak the panko in the milk until all of the liquid is absorbed (about 3 minutes).
When the onion mixture is cool, add the egg yolk to it and mix to combine.
Place the ground meats in a large mixing bowl. Sprinkle with salt and cheese, then add panko and onion mixtures. Using clean hands, combine to incorporate the ingredients. Do not overmix, or the meatballs will not be tender.
Coat the sheet pan with olive oil. Using a 1 7/8-inch ice cream scoop (#30 size), scoop out golf ball-sized portions of meat onto the sheet. When all the meat is scooped, gently form each mound into 14 meatballs. Bake for about 20 minutes, rotating the pan in the oven (front to back) halfway through, until nicely browned (that caramelization is an important flavor layer). Baking time will vary depending on oven, so let color be your guide.
Remove the meatballs from the oven. Heat Basil Tomato Sauce in a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Add chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Add the meatballs and return to a gentle simmer. Cover the pot with a tight lid and continue simmering for another 30 minutes. Stir in chopped basil leaves and butter. Serve as a sauce for any pasta, or as a base layer for Baked Ziti casserole.
To serve with pasta, add drained pasta (cooked just 1 minute less than al dente) to the simmering pot of meatballs and sauce and toss; the pasta will finish cooking in the sauce and absorb more of the sauce flavor. Top with more freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
PER SERVING (based on 5): 701 calories, 43 g protein, 17 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 6 g sugar, 52 g fat (14 g sat fat), 171 mg cholesterol, 2,684 mg sodium
Source: Julian Barsotti, chef/owner of Nonna, Carbone’s, Sprezza and Fachini
Basil Tomato Sauce
1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided use)
3/4 teaspoon chile flakes
12 whole basil leaves and stems
5 cloves garlic, sliced
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Put 1/4 cup of the olive oil in a small sauté pan set over the lowest heat. Add the chile flakes, basil leaves and stems, and garlic and heat gently for 30 minutes, pressing the basil branches into the oil occasionally to keep them as submerged as possible. Do not let the oil heat to more than the barest simmer. Set aside.
Meanwhile, in a saucepan set over medium high heat, combine the crushed tomatoes with the salt and 1 1/2 tablespoons of the olive oil. When the mixture begins to simmer briskly, reduce heat and cook at a low simmer for 30 minutes, so that the tomatoes thicken.
Pour the infused basil oil through a fine mesh strainer into the pan of tomato sauce, using the back of a spoon to press on the basil and garlic to extract more flavor.
Source: Julian Barsotti, chef/owner of Nonna, Carbone’s, Sprezza and Fachini
Baked Ziti with Meatballs
2 tablespoons butter
2 ounces (about 7 tablespoons) all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus additional for cooking the pasta and seasoning to taste
1 pound dried ziti (or substitute penne)
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus 2 tablespoons (divided use)
1 recipe Chicken and Pork Belly Meatballs with Red Sauce
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter just until it is foaming (do not let it brown). Whisk in flour and cook for 2 minutes, whisking constantly to prevent flour from sticking to bottom of the pan. Add milk and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Cook 10 minutes, whisking constantly, until the béchamel comes to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook an additional minute, whisking occasionally. Remove from heat (may be prepared up to 2 days in advance and reheated with some of the pasta cooking water to thin it).
Heat oven to 450 F.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the ziti and cook until just under al dente (about 90 seconds less than al dente; there will still be a trace of white in the center of the pasta wall). Drain the pasta (reserve some of the pasta cooking water) and transfer to a large bowl. Add the béchamel (thinned with pasta water, if necessary), Parmigiano Reggiano, and salt to taste (about 1/2 teaspoon) and mix until the pasta is evenly coated.
Spread the meatballs with red sauce evenly in the bottom of a deep lasagna pan or ovenproof casserole dish. Using a fork, smash each meatball once or twice to roughly break them. Cover the meatballs and sauce with the ziti. Sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons Parmigiano Reggiano. Bake for about 10 to 12 minutes, or until browned on top, rotating the pan front to back halfway through cooking (watch closely). Let rest for 30 to 60 minutes before serving, to allow the casserole to set up.
Makes 6 servings.
PER SERVING: 600 calories, 27 g protein, 70 g carbohydrates, no fiber, 8 g sugar, 22 g fat (10 g sat fat), 64 mg cholesterol, 1,102 mg sodium
Source: Julian Barsotti, chef/owner of Nonna, Carbone’s, Sprezza and Fachini
Lamb Meatballs in Tomato Sauce with Spinach
For the meatballs:
1 cup milk
1 cup firm white bread (crust removed), sliced and cut or torn into 1/2-inch bits
1 pound ground domestic lamb
1 whole egg plus 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1 garlic clove, finely minced
3 tablespoons grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, plus additional for serving
3 tablespoons Pecorino Romano cheese, plus additional for serving
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped parsley
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Olive oil for frying
For the sauce:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 (28-ounce) cans San Marzano tomatoes
1/2 cup fresh basil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
For the spinach:
1 pound fresh baby spinach, washed and drained well
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
To make the meatballs:
Soak the bread in the milk and stir to combine. Set aside for about 10 minutes so that the bread absorbs the milk and becomes soggy.
Place lamb, egg and yolks, garlic, Parmesan and Pecorino cheeses, and parsley in a large mixing bowl. Add salt (about 1 teaspoon) and pepper, to taste.
When the bread is soggy, use your hands to squeeze out the excess milk, then add the bread to the bowl with the meat. Using clean hands, mix all the ingredients just until combined (do not overmix, or the meatballs will not be tender).
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Coat your hands with olive oil. Using a small ice cream scoop, portion out golf ball-sized meatballs and roll them into balls with your hands. Transfer the balls to the baking sheet.
In a large, deep pan set over medium-high heat, pour enough oil to cover the meatballs. When oil is hot (but not yet smoking) fry meatballs in batches until nicely browned (alternatively, you can use only enough oil to come halfway up the meatballs and turn them to brown both sides). Transfer browned meatballs to paper towels to drain.
To make the sauce:
In a saucepan, heat 1/4 cup olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent. Add the garlic and cook just until it turns golden on the edges.
Puree the San Marzano tomatoes (in a blender, or in a large bowl using an immersion blender or potato masher). Transfer the pureed tomatoes to the saucepan. Add basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Bring the mixture to a simmer. Add meatballs and continue simmering for about 25 minutes.
To make spinach:
Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden. Add the spinach, salt and pepper, and toss for a couple of minutes, just until wilted.
To assemble the dish:
Serve the meatballs and sauce over a bed of spinach and sprinkle them with a blend of Parmigiano and Pecorino cheeses seasoned with freshly ground black pepper.
Makes 4 servings.
PER SERVING: 801 calories, 34 g protein, 31 g carbohydrates, 7 g fiber, 14 g sugar, 59 g fat (15 g sat fat), 227 mg cholesterol, 2,667 mg sodium
Source: Chef Giuliano Matarese, Mille Lire restaurant
Kofta Chalao
For the meatballs:
1 1/2 pounds ground beef
2 teaspoons breadcrumbs
1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1/4 bunch cilantro, chopped
Salt and black pepper
For the sauce:
6 teaspoons cooking oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/3 cup tomato paste
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 1/2 ounces dried plums (pitted prunes) chopped (about 1/3 cup)
2 small red, orange or yellow sweet peppers, chopped
2 tablespoons jarred sundried tomatoes in oil, drained and finely chopped
1/3 cup yellow split peas, boiled in water until tender
1/4 bunch cilantro, chopped
Salt and black pepper
Thoroughly mix together the ground beef, breadcrumbs, coriander, cumin, garlic, onions, cilantro and 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Form the mixture into 1-ounce balls. Set aside while you prepare the sauce.
Heat the oil in a pot. Fry the onions until translucent. Add the garlic and 2 1/2 cups water; bring to a boil. Stir in the tomato paste, coriander, paprika and turmeric until dissolved. Add dried plums, sweet peppers, sundried tomatoes, and some salt and black pepper. (You can puree this mixture for a smooth sauce using an immersion blender; or you can leave it chunky). Bring to a boil. Add the cooked split peas, koftas and cilantro, then cover the pot and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook, covered for about 20 minutes. Remove lid and simmer for another 5 minutes.
Serve over basmati rice.
Makes 6 servings.
PER SERVING: 331 calories, 23 g protein, 18 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 7 g sugar, 18 g fat (6 g sat fat), 70 mg cholesterol, 668 mg sodium
Source: Matt Pikar, chef/owner of Nora restaurant
Tina Danze is a Dallas freelance writer.