Who better than members of the greatest generation can teach us lessons for surviving catastrophic times? They endured world wars, the Great Depression, rationing, the polio epidemic. Their children, many raised in those bleak times, assure us today that we can find the strength to weather the current COVID-19 pandemic.
Listening to their stories, we’re reminded how much family interaction took place at the dinner table. Now that we’re spending so much time cooking and eating together, we rediscover how breaking bread with those you love can be a deeply bonding and healing act.
To that end, I’m digging through my grandmothers’ cookbooks and recipe boxes to find dishes that speak to this kind of reassurance. I notice how bland some were. There was less access to spices and herbs and other goods we enjoy today, obviously. The recipes also include very little instruction. These women, proficient at running homes and raising families in difficult times, just knew what to do. For flavor’s sake, I’m reworking these recipes and employing ingredients we’re fond of using now. It’s one way I think we can find kitchen comfort while sheltering in place.
Here’s my update of a 1928 recipe from my dad’s mother’s The Woman’s Club of Fort Worth Cook Book. I used fresh mushrooms instead of canned, added red bell pepper and green peas for color, and included garlic and herbs to enliven the works. A little cream sauce goes in place of preservative-laden canned soup, and grated cheeses richen the dish. For a pretty finish, I used chopped Italian parsley and oregano from our garden.
Chicken Spaghetti
1 pound thin spaghetti, broken into 2- to 3-inch pieces
8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (or 6 boneless, skinless breasts)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped yellow onion
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup shredded carrots
1 cup mix of diced red and green bell pepper
1 cup sliced mushrooms
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup green peas (frozen, thawed)
2 teaspoons each fresh thyme and oregano leaves (or dried)
1 teaspoon oregano leaves, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups half-and-half
1 1/2 cups shredded Italian cheese blend (such as mozzarella, provolone, Romano, Parmesan and Asiago), divided use
1 cup buttered bread or cracker crumbs
Italian parsley, chopped, for garnish
Cook spaghetti according to package directions, just to al dente. Drain and set aside.
Bring pot of salted water to boil and add chicken, stirring once. Reduce to simmer and allow chicken to cook gently for about 10 minutes or until cooked through. Drain (reserving chicken broth), cool and shred chicken. Set aside.
In large pan, heat oil over medium heat and add celery, carrots, bell pepper, mushrooms and garlic, stirring to cook until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add peas and seasonings and stir to combine. If mixture becomes dry, add reserved chicken broth, a little at a time. Add flour, stirring until combined. Add half-and-half slowly, stirring. Continue to stir over medium-low heat until a smooth, thick sauce has formed. Remove from heat and stir in cooked spaghetti, chicken and half the cheese. Turn into buttered baking dish and top with remaining cheese and buttered crumbs. Bake in 400 degree oven for 20 to 30 minutes, until bubbly. Let cool 10 minutes; garnish with chopped herbs and serve with green salad.
Makes 8-10 servings.
SOURCE: Adapted by June Naylor from The Woman’s Club of Fort Worth Cook Book, 1928.
June Naylor is a food writer and cookbook author living in Fort Worth.
