If you are one of the 330k-plus followers on Jake Cohen’s Instagram, you already know his first book is a testament to the constant evolution of Jewish food. While some recipes are traditional, many are a modern twist that make the dish unique.
Jake’s headnotes in the cookbook, Jew-ish: A Cookbook: Reinvented Recipes From A Modern Mensch (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $30), provide witty insight and personal commentary. The fascinating intro reminds readers to “actively exercise gratitude, to strengthen and build our community,” and eat! Hosting Shabbat offered Jake that opportunity.
The Culinary Institute of America graduate spent time working the line at New York’s top restaurants, and is now a media consultant, recipe developer, stylist and social media star.
In his cookbook, unexpected twists make the finished product greater than expected. As I began cooking through the book, I went first to some family favorites, comparing my recipes to Jake’s versions.
A testimony to the simplest change is the Charred Scallion Cream Cheese (page 15), which results in a nearly magical outcome. The caramelized flavor of the charred onions elevates the experience far beyond the effort. The char imparted a smokiness, described in the headnotes, recognized in the first taste.
Roasted Chicken Matzo Ball Soup (page 147) seems to answer the questions: How do I make my matzo balls perfect? How do I add depth and interest to a dish traditionally served as broth and balls? Jake’s recipe has just enough schmaltz, and the matzo balls are perfect and just the right size. Roasting the chicken, bones and vegetables adds the needed layers of flavor.
You Can Go Your Own Way: Babka Edition (page 182) is a new twist on the traditional twist. While I have never moved beyond the expected version, I tried and loved Jake’s savory take on babka, making both the Rueben and Pistachio Pesto and Sun-Dried Tomato. I used Jake’s twist, but watched the suggested video on the double twist, a Melissa Clark original, and decided to try her version, and his recipe, on my next loaf.
Black and White Chocolate Chip Cookies (page 229) could not be better. It is difficult to improve, and yet Jake has mastered the vision. Glazes are way beyond the expected icing, covering the cookie filled with milk chocolate chips and chopped dark chocolate. I tested the dough without the glaze (and truth be told, some before baking) and decided this was a new favorite recipe.
Jew-ish will spark the reader’s imagination, and dare I say, in 10 chapters, offer the opportunity to be a more creative and inventive cook. Jake calls his writings a love story. I agree, I love it: The reinvention of the past brings us and memories to the table. Post reading, I decided to twist a few of my own favorite recipes, following Jake’s lead, and will admit, Jake made me a better cook.
Roasted Chicken Matzo Ball Soup
For the matzo balls:
2 cups matzo meal
1/2 cup schmaltz, melted
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
6 large eggs, beaten
2/3 cup seltzer water
For the soup:
2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken legs (4 medium)
1 pound carrots (4 medium), scrubbed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound parsnips (4 large), scrubbed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium yellow onion, diced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup minced fresh dill
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
For the matzo balls: In a large bowl, stir together the matzo meal, melted schmaltz, dill, salt and eggs until smooth. Gently stir in the seltzer until incorporated. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Scoop the chilled matzo mixture into ¼-cup balls, using wet hands to roll them until smooth. You should have about 14 matzo balls.
Gently add the matzo balls, one at a time, to the boiling water. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until fluffy and tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat, cover, and let sit for 15 minutes, then keep warm until the soup is ready.
For the soup: While the matzo balls cook, preheat the oven to 450 F.
On a half sheet pan, toss together the chicken legs, carrots, parsnips, onion, olive oil, and a heavy pinch each of salt and pepper, then arrange the legs skin-side up on the pan. Roast for 30 minutes, until the vegetables and chicken are lightly golden.
Transfer the vegetables and chicken to a large pot and cover with the stock and 4 cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer and cook until the chicken is extremely tender, about 30 minutes. Using a ladle, skim off any fat from the top of the liquid and discard. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Transfer the chicken legs to a bowl and let cool slightly. Once they are cool enough to handle, use two forks to shred the meat and discard the skin and bones. Stir the shredded chicken, dill, and lemon zest into the soup, then taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked matzo balls to serving bowls, then ladle the soup over and serve.
Serves 6-8.
SOURCE: Excerpted from JEW-ISH: A COOKBOOK: Reinvented Recipes from a Modern Mensch, by Jake Cohen
Black-and-White Chocolate Chip Cookies
For the cookies:
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
¾ cup packed light brown sugar
⅔ cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¾ teaspoon baking soda
2 cups milk chocolate chips
3 ½ ounces dark chocolate (70 percent cacao), finely chopped
For the white chocolate glaze:
1 cup white chocolate chips
3 tablespoons unrefined coconut oil
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
For the dark chocolate glaze:
1 cup dark chocolate chips
3 tablespoons unrefined coconut oil
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
Flaky sea salt, for garnish (optional)
For the cookies: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and both sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 minutes. With the mixer running, add the eggs one at a time and mix until incorporated, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the vanilla and mix to incorporate.
Add the flour, kosher salt, and baking soda and mix on low speed until a smooth dough forms. Add the milk chocolate chips and dark chocolate and mix on low speed until just incorporated. Remove the mixer bowl, cover, and refrigerate the dough for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Line two half sheet pans with parchment paper and have a 5-inch-wide bowl or round cutter ready.
Scoop the cookie dough into ¼-cup balls. Working in two batches, place 6 cookies on each of the prepared pans, spacing them 3 inches apart. Bake for 14 to 16 minutes, until golden brown. As soon as you remove each pan from the oven, place the bowl or round cutter over each cookie and gently roll it around in gentle circles to smooth the edges into a perfect round. Let the cookies cool slightly on the pans, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining balls of cookie dough. Once all the cookies are baked and cooled, divide them between the two sheet pans, with the bottom (flat side) of each cookie facing up.
For the white chocolate glaze: Set a medium metal bowl over a small pot of simmering water. Put the white chocolate chips and coconut oil in the bowl and heat, stirring as needed, until melted and well combined. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the confectioners’ sugar and kosher salt until smooth and glossy. Using an offset spatula or butter knife, spread the glaze over half of the bottom (flat side) of each cookie to coat.
For the dark chocolate glaze: Set another medium metal bowl over the pot of simmering water. Put the dark chocolate chips and coconut oil in the bowl and heat, stirring as needed, until melted and well combined. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the confectioners’ sugar and kosher salt until smooth and glossy. Using an offset spatula or butter knife, spread the glaze over the other half of the bot-tom of each cookie to coat.
Garnish with flaky sea salt, if desired. Refrigerate for 15 minutes to set the glaze, then serve
Makes about 24 cookies.
SOURCE: Excerpted from JEW-ISH: A COOKBOOK: Reinvented Recipes from a Modern Mensch, by Jake Cohen
You Can Go Your Own Way: Babka Edition
1 cup whole milk, heated to 115 F
⅓ cup sugar
1 (¼-ounce) packet active dry yeast (2 ¼ teaspoons)
4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
4 large eggs
5 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 teaspoons kosher salt
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 recipe babka filling (recipes follow)
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk the warm milk and sugar together. Sprinkle the yeast over the top and let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes.
Add the melted butter and 3 of the eggs, then whisk until well incorporated. Switch to the dough hook, then add the flour and salt. Beginning on low speed and gradually increasing to medium, knead until a smooth, elastic dough forms, about 5 minutes.
Grease a medium bowl and your hands with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Using your hands, transfer the dough to the bowl, gently turning to coat it with the oil, and shape it into a smooth ball. Cover with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel and set aside in a warm place until doubled in size, 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes. (Alternatively, you can let the dough rise in the refrigerator, covered, overnight.)
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease two 9 by 5-inch loaf pans with the remaining oil, using 1 tablespoon for each pan.
Divide the dough into 2 equal balls. On a lightly floured surface, roll out one ball of dough into a 12 by 14-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick and aligned horizontally.
Spread half the filling evenly over the surface of the dough, leaving a 1-inch border all the way around the rectangle. Starting with the edge closest to you, roll up the dough tightly into a log. Using a serrated knife, carefully cut the roll lengthwise in half. Twist the strands together and pinch the ends to seal. (See photos.) Carefully place the babka in one of the prepared loaf pans.7.Repeat this process with the remaining dough and filling. Cover both babkas loosely with plastic wrap or clean kitchen towels and set aside in a warm area until the dough expands to fill the pan, about 45 minutes.
In a small bowl, beat the remaining egg, then liberally brush each babka with the egg. Bake, rotating the pans halfway through, for 35 to 40 minutes, until the babkas are golden and each has reached an internal temperature of 185 F.
Remove from the oven and let cool slightly in the pans, then remove the loaves from the pans and let cool completely before slicing and serving. Babka is best served the day it’s baked.
Make It Parve! If you’re looking to keep the dough parve, substitute 1 cup water for the milk and substitute ½ cup vegetable oil for the butter.
Chocolate-Tahini Babka Filling
1 cup dark chocolate chips
4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
¼ cup (50g) granulated sugar1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup tahini
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, for garnish
Place the chocolate in a heatproof medium bowl.
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring continuously, until browned and nutty in aroma, 6 to 8 minutes. Pour the melted butter over the chocolate, then add the sugar, salt, and tahini. Whisk until a smooth ganache forms, then let cool to room temperature.
Fill the babka dough as directed on page 182 and garnish the babkas with the sesame seeds right before baking.
Pumpkin Spice Babka Filling
1 ½ cups canned pumpkin puree
½ cup packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ cup maple syrup, for brushing
In a medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, brown sugar, cinnamon, salt, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice until smooth.
Fill and bake the babka dough. Brush the babkas with the maple syrup as soon as they come out of the oven.
Reuben Babka Filling
12 ounces thick-cut pastrami, finely chopped
8 ounces Swiss cheese, coarsely grated
1 cup sauerkraut, drained
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup ketchup
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon caraway seeds, for garnish
In a medium bowl, stir together the pastrami, cheese, sauerkraut, mayonnaise, ketchup, and mustard until well combined. Fill the babka dough as directed on page 182 and garnish the babkas with the caraway seeds right before baking.
Pistachio Pesto and Sun-Dried Tomato Babka Filling
2 cups packed fresh basil leaves
1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup shelled pistachios
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemonKosher salt
¾ cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and finely chopped
In a food processor, combine the basil, ½ cup of the Parmesan, the pistachios, olive oil, garlic, and lemon zest and juice. Puree until smooth, then season with salt. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the remaining ½ cup Parmesan and the sun-dried tomatoes. Fill and bake the babka dough.
Makes 2 loaves.
SOURCE: Excerpted from JEW-ISH: A COOKBOOK: Reinvented Recipes from a Modern Mensch, by Jake Cohen