Tinned fish is having a moment. From anchovies to sardines, the shelf-stable items are becoming pantry go-tos. And it doesn’t hurt that the wide array of beautiful, artfully designed tins are also Instagram-friendly.
Chris McDade’s cookbook, The Magic of Tinned Fish: Elevate Your Cooking With Canned Anchovies, Sardines, Mackerel, Crab, and Other Amazing Seafood (Artisan Books, $24.95), really does tap into the versatility and downright sophistication of tinned seafood.
From the simplest applications, like Sardines on a Board, Page 85, to po’boys, mussel salads and savory dressings, the cookbook is full of details about each fish. We love the What’s in the Tin feature, which offers a mental picture of what to expect.
5 things to know about tinned seafood:
Versatility: Tinned fish can be served with a baguette or crackers, adding herbs, olives and just a dash of sea salt. Opt for the fish packed in olive oil for extra good fat, or in water for a reduction in calories, or canned with a variety of spices to complement dishes. Add to pasta or curries for a quick and easy meal. Mix with fresh herbs to stuff avocados, create salads, or top pizza. Add a tin to cream cheese, with seasonings, to make a tasty dip. It’s also a simple (and affordable) option in stews and chowders.
Tips: Brighten the dish with a squeeze of citrus. Always add fish at the end of cooking, to heat through.
Convenience: “Fish in a can” is a centuries-old preservation method, with fish caught and canned immediately. Store in your pantry, awaiting an adventure.
Affordability: Known in Spain and Portugal as conserves or latillas, tinned fish is more than convenient. It is also economical compared with fresh options. And it is shelf stable and packaged in small quantities, both of which reduce food waste.
Beauty: Tinned fish packaging is an artisan trade in Spain and Portugal. The intricate, bold designs are symbolic of the gastronomic culture.
Grilled Broccoli With Anchovies, Pistachios and Green Goddess Dressing
A California classic, Green Goddess is a tangy, herby buttermilk dressing. It pairs well with broccoli, which becomes wonderfully charred and tender after just a few minutes on the grill. The addition of anchovies here is a perfect example of how their umami quality rounds out a dressing without becoming the dominant flavor.
Green Goddess Dressing
3/4 cup (170 g) mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 teaspoon yellow mustard
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon minced fresh mint
1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
1 tablespoon minced jalapeño
4 anchovy fillets, minced
3 tablespoons buttermilk
2 teaspoons olive oil
Lemon, for squeezing
Grilled Broccoli and Herbs
2 medium stalks broccoli, stems trimmed off, cut into large florets
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
5 anchovy fillets
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped pistachios
To make the Green Goddess dressing: In a food processor, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, minced herbs, jalapeño and anchovies and pulse until the ingredients are well incorporated. (It’s important to mince the herbs before putting them in the food processor, so that you don’t end up with bruised and stringy bits of herbs in the final product.) With the food processor running, slowly drizzle in the buttermilk. Follow with the olive oil and finish with a squeeze of lemon juice.
If using the dressing right away, leave it in the food processor to save yourself the extra dirty bowl. If saving the dressing for later, transfer it to an airtight container and store for up to 3 days.
To make the broccoli: Heat a grill to medium-high. (Alternatively, heat a grill pan over medium-high heat.)
In a large bowl, gently massage the broccoli florets with the olive oil, salt and pepper to taste.
Place the broccoli on the grill and set the bowl to the side. Cook the broccoli, turning the pieces every 2 minutes or so, until they are nicely charred and tender, about 8 minutes.
Return the broccoli to the bowl and toss with as much or as little Green Goddess dressing as you’d like.
Arrange the dressed broccoli on a serving platter and scatter the anchovy fillets over the top, followed by the herbs and finally the chopped pistachios, before diving in.
Makes 2 entree servings or 4 appetizer servings.
SOURCE: Excerpted from The Magic of Tinned Fish by Chris McDade (Artisan Books).
Mussel Salad With Fennel, Chickpeas and Dill Vinaigrette
Mussels cooked with chickpeas are a staple in kitchens across many countries. There is something magical about the contrast between the nutty and creamy chickpeas and the plump and briny mussels. This recipe builds on the tradition but incorporates the ingredients into a refreshing salad brightened by a dill vinaigrette.
Dill Vinaigrette
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
3 tablespoons olive oil
Grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
1 clove garlic, peeled
Fish sauce
Mussel Salad
1 medium bulb fennel, halved through the root end
2 red radishes
One 15-ounce (425 g) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon chopped capers
One 4.2-ounce (120 g) tin smoked mussels in broth
Small handful of arugula, for garnish
To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, stir together the mustard, dill, olive oil, lemon zest and lemon juice. This is a “broken” vinaigrette, so don’t worry if it doesn’t look emulsified. Add the garlic by grating it over the bowl with a Microplane. Season with fish sauce to taste and set aside. If you’re not using this immediately, it will hold in an airtight container, refrigerated, for 3 days.
To prepare the mussel salad: Working over a large bowl and using a mandoline, thinly shave the fennel starting at the bottom of the bulb and working your way toward the fronds. Repeat the process with the radishes.
Add the chickpeas to the bowl and toss to combine. Add the capers and stir to combine.
Taste the broth of the tinned mussels; if you think it’s delicious, add it, along with the mussels, to the bowl. If not, drain the mussels before adding them to the bowl. Gently stir to combine, taking care to keep the mussels as intact as possible.
Add the dill vinaigrette to the mussel salad and gently stir, coating the chickpeas and vegetables.
Spoon the salad into serving bowls and garnish with a couple pieces of arugula.
Makes 2 servings.
SOURCE: Excerpted from The Magic of Tinned Fish by Chris McDade (Artisan Books).