Ten years ago, it was nearly impossible to find Japanese whisky in Dallas. Now, you still might have trouble finding your favorite bottles on store shelves, but that’s because demand has outpaced supply, with Japanese whisky enjoying a reputation that rivals the world’s best scotches and bourbons.
According to IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, an organization that tracks alcohol trends, the Japanese whisky category grew at a 67% compound annual growth rate from 2013 to 2018. Last year alone, total volume increased 40%. And nationally, Texas ranks second to California in consumption.
The spirit likely hit Dallas first in 2008, when Teiichi Sakurai opened Tei-An. At the time, a bottle of Yamazaki 12 cost about $40, but popularity bred scarcity. With fewer aged stocks available, now a single pour can cost that much or more.
"At first it wasn't popular," says Tei-An general manager Best Ranglek, who notes that Japanese whisky drinks similar to scotch, but more subtle and lighter on the palate. Then, in 2014, Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013 was named the World's Best Whisky in Jim Murray's Whisky Bible, an annual tome of ratings. "That's when it became really famous," Ranglek says. "After that, we didn't have to sell people on it, we just had to have it."
Today, Tei-An stocks about 35 bottles, including a few extra-exclusive options that are left off the menu and reserved for members.
A half mile to the west, Nobu inside the Hotel Crescent Court carries an impressive 52 Japanese whiskies. Their collection is a newer venture spearheaded by bar manager Eric Prendes.
"When I took over the bar program two years ago, we had four or five bottles," he says. "I thought it would be cool to have as many as possible, so I began trying to get more."
The rows of well-lit bottles catch the eye as soon as you sit down at the bar. Prendes notes that it's still rare for knowledgeable customers to walk in and request an obscure bottle, but people ask about their selection every day. When someone shows an interest, he'll often start by asking for their usual preferences, and then make a suggestion in line with that. For bourbon drinkers: something sporting oak and caramel sweetness. For scotch fans: something malty or smoky.
Customers can also order flights featuring bottles from Suntory and Nikka, the two powerhouses of Japanese whisky. But you don't have to drink the spirits straight, as the restaurant also features Japanese whisky in cocktails like the Nobu Sidecar and Kikori Old Fashioned.
"It makes sense," adds Nobu general manager Layne Nguyen. "Texans love whisky, especially bourbons and scotches. And this fits with what we do at Nobu."
Just up the road at Uchiba, the upstairs sibling to Uchi, you can find a respectable 16 bottles of Japanese whisky ranging from Yamazaki 12 and other pricey single malts to more accessible blends.
Uchiba bar manager Rick Billings says that people come in looking for Japanese whisky, but most don't know much about the category.
"The reputation that the name brings means the only push required is one that steers them in the right direction of which particular whisky they will like," he says.
The three restaurants above are anomalies, not the norm. Your average sports bar or dive won't stock any Japanese whisky, but the better cocktail bars, whisky bars and even some steakhouses will typically have a bottle or two. And liquor stores like Total Wine, Spec's and Pogo's carry sizable selections, making them worthwhile spots to browse.
If you see one in the wild, give it a try. D-FW has access to dozens of bottles, but the most popular labels like Yamazaki remain rare, and the situation could get worse before it gets better.
"The 2020 Olympics in Tokyo are already causing problems for us because they're saving the best bottles for themselves," Ranglek says. He notes that rarer whiskies like Yamazaki 25 are on strict allocation. "There are only a few bottles in all of Texas, and we've got one of them."
Below are six expert-approved bottles to try for yourself.
Yamazaki 12
Yamazaki is Japan's oldest whisky distillery. A taste of the 12-Year isn't cheap, but it's a classic for a reason. "Yamazaki 12 is a great starting point," Prendes says. It's aged in a combination of American, Spanish and Japanese oak barrels and a good pick for scotch and bourbon drinkers. Find it at Nobu for $50 per glass. Tei-An has it for $32, but currently it's only available to members.
Yame 10-Year
If you like blended scotch or easy-drinking single malts, Prendes recommends Yame 10-Year, a blend of pot-distilled malt whiskies. "It's got a real honey-ish taste, but without the peat," he says. "It's incredibly smooth." $22.
Nikka Whisky from the Barrel
A combination of single malt and grain whiskies from the Miyagikyo and Yoichi distilleries are married in a variety of casks, including those that once held bourbon and sherry. "This is great for anyone who likes a hotter style of over-proof bourbon like Knob Creek," Prendes says. "It's 51.4% alcohol-by-volume and provides some of that caramel you get from bourbon." $25.
Nikka Coffey Grain
Taking its name from the type of still used in its production, Nikka Coffey Grain is a blend featuring notes of sweet grains, bourbon-like vanilla and fruit. "This tends to be popular among bourbon drinkers, and it does well in Texas," Ranglek says. $22.
Ichiro's Malt & Grain
This unique bottle is a blend of malt and grain whiskies from Japan and elsewhere. "It's great for people who are brand-new to the spirit," Ranglek says. "It's easy-drinking and very friendly." $22.
Mars Iwai
“If you’re a bourbon drinker such as myself, Mars Iwai ($15) and Mars Iwai Tradition ($20) are fantastic options,” says Billings, who notes that he keeps a bottle of the latter at home. Mars Iwai is a blend of corn and malted barley, and it’s aged entirely in ex-bourbon barrels. The Tradition features more malt grains and is aged in bourbon, sherry and wine barrels for a more complex result.