Just as fall brings sweater weather, it sparks cravings for cozy foods and wines that enhance them. We’re stocking up on versatile wines that pair well with a slew of fall dishes: slow-cooked stews and casseroles; wild game; pork, many ways; sausages; stuffed mushrooms; and roast chicken, to name a few.
Although big California cabs and buttery chardonnays may work with a few dishes, they aren’t the most versatile styles. Longer oak aging reduces their acidity, and acidity is what enhances food flavors, refreshing the palate between bites. Wines with good acidity and moderate to low tannins (in the case of reds) are good matches for most dishes. Below are four styles of food-friendly wines to drink this fall.
An earthy pinot noir
Lighter tannins, bright acidity and red fruit flavors make pinot noir one of the most versatile red wines, and a Thanksgiving favorite. Earthy notes are a plus for pairing with many fall foods and grilled fare. This style goes with everything from roasted root vegetables and grilled salmon to rich pork and poultry. Mushroom, grilled meat, and wild game dishes are especially good with earthy pinots. Serve the wine slightly chilled — about 30 minutes in the fridge gets it there.
Food pairings: Mushroom risotto or pasta; stuffed mushrooms; pork chops with a dried plum or cherry sauce; prosciutto-wrapped pork tenderloin; slow-cooked or barbecued pulled pork; wild game; roasted poultry; duck breast with cherry sauce; lamb chops; bacon-enhanced dishes; grilled salmon; coq au vin; pot roast; pizza with prosciutto, pepperoni or mushrooms; eggplant dishes; and beet salad with goat cheese.
Try this:
Hahn SLH Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, 2019: Thanks largely to the efforts of Nicky Hahn, the late founder of Hahn Family Wines, the Santa Lucia Highlands region of Monterrey County was awarded AVA status in 1991. Cooling ocean breezes, morning fog and a long growing season make the region ideal for producing pinot noir with concentrated fruit balanced by acidity. Black cherry and plum flavors mingle with baking spice, root beer, mineral and earthy notes in this vintage. Besides the pinot pairings noted above, it’s also a good fit for bacon-wrapped quail or pork with a dried plum sauce. The wine is made with sustainably farmed, estate-grown fruit yet remains affordable. It’s widely available at large liquor stores and supermarkets. We found it for $23.99 at Sigel’s.
Red Rhone blends
A balance of rich fruit, vibrant acidity and moderate tannins makes these dry reds ideal for rustic fall dishes. Grenache, syrah and mourvèdre drive classic Cotes du Rhone red blends, and other Rhone grape varieties often join them.
Rhone blends’ tannins handle fall dishes without overwhelming them. The wines’ wild herb, bramble, spice and savory notes enhance Mediterranean seasonings, roasts, grilled meats and game — all the better if paired with a berry or cherry sauce. Cotes du Rhone wines are renowned for their excellent value and high quality. Rhone-style blends from California’s Paso Robles region are also good choices for fall pairings.
Food pairings: Wild game, lamb, duck and other meats; sausage with red peppers and onions; earthy slow-cooked stews; shepherd’s pie; Middle Eastern dishes (lamb gyros, kebabs, baba ghanoush); Morroccan tagines; stuffed peppers; and dishes featuring mushrooms, onions, red peppers or Provençal herbs.
Try this:
J.L. Chave Selection Cotes du Rhone “Mon Coeur” 2020, France: For this dry, medium-bodied red, renowned producer Jean Louis Chave sources organically farmed grapes from excellent plots in four acclaimed growing villages of the Southern Rhone. It’s a blend of 40% grenache, 40% syrah, 15% mourvèdre and 5% carignan. Concentrated flavors of dark wild cherry, plum and dark berries are framed by medium tannins; black pepper, woodsy and dried herb notes lend complexity. This wine’s personality changes with food — it’s best savored over a meal, not happy hour. It’s poured by the glass at Monarch and the French Room, and retails for about $25.99 at Pogo’s, Central Market, Dallas Fine Wine and Spirits, and Café Duro’s market.
Off-dry riesling
Neither steely dry nor sweet, a slightly off-dry riesling’s mouthwatering acidity and juicy fruit play well with a wide range of foods. The aromatic wine’s fruit flavors — from lemon and apple to ripe stone fruits — complement light meats like pork, roast chicken, turkey and the holiday ham. Dry and fruity with just a touch of residual sugar, this style of riesling works with almost every dish on the Thanksgiving table and contrasts nicely with spicy curries (that hint of sweetness tames the heat). It’s also a great foil for salty foods, so sip a glass with chips or popcorn while you pass out the Halloween candy. Another bonus: These wines tend to have lower alcohol levels (about 12% ABV).
Food pairings: Bratwurst with mustard and sauerkraut; pork tenderloin with mango chutney; pork schnitzel or breaded pork chops; roasted pork loin with apples; New Mexican green chile stew (made with chicken or pork); crispy-skinned roast chicken; duck with a fruity sauce; roasted beet salad with goat cheese; sweet potatoes; roasted squash; spicy gumbo; Cajun dishes and sausage; curried butternut squash soup; roasted root vegetables; tarte flambé (a copycat is the pizza-like Tarte D’Alsace at Trader Joe’s), or bacon-onion cheese pizza; and Indian or Thai curries.
Try this:
Château Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen “Eroica” Riesling, 2021, Columbia Valley, Wash.: Ernst Loosen, a renowned Mosel winemaker, has been collaborating with Washington state’s Chateau Ste. Michelle for 20 years on this incredibly versatile off-dry riesling. Unlike many American rieslings, it has only a hint of sweetness, drinking between dry and medium dry. Made with cool-climate grapes, this medium-bodied white showcases fresh, pure flavors of apricot, nectarine, crisp green apple and tart citrus. Racy acidity balances the wine and readies the palate for the next bite. It’s an easy match for a wide range of foods, and a bargain — usually under $21. Sold at: Sigel’s (Greenville and Fitzhugh stores); Whole Foods on Preston Road, Dallas; Total Wine in Plano; HEB in Frisco; and Spec’s (Central Expressway in Dallas, Rowlett, Sachse and Westlake stores).
Lightly oaked chardonnay
Good, lightly oaked chardonnays won’t have the vanilla and butterscotch flavors that many California chards unabashedly display. Instead, white fruit and citrus flavors are balanced with lively acidity that cuts through the richness of many fall dishes. A little oak aging lends backbone and more texture than you’ll find in summer whites. This style of chardonnay is common in Burgundy, but some California and Oregon winemakers are successfully emulating it. Serve it chilled — but never ice cold or you’ll mask the flavors. Take it out of the fridge 20 minutes before serving to dial back the chill.
Food pairings: Roast chicken or turkey; chicken potpie; King Ranch casserole; mild curries; butternut squash soup; pumpkin ravioli; creamy pastas; risottos; pork tenderloin with apples; scallops or fish with a cream or butter sauce; mac and cheese; mussels; creamy soups; salad with pears and walnuts; loaded baked potatoes or twice-baked potatoes; roasted vegetables; and pastry-wrapped baked brie.
Try this:
Jordan Vineyards Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, 2019, Calif.: For over 40 years, Jordan Vineyards has been laser-focused on producing two wines: a chardonnay and a cabernet sauvignon. That dedication pays off, as evidenced by this well-made Burgundian-style chardonnay, aged just 5 1/2 months in French oak. It shows bright flavors of crisp pear, green apple and citrus, with a touch of stony minerality. Although this wine is crisp with lively acidity, a creamy note adds a little weight to the palate. This versatile chardonnay’s pairing range swings from salads to creamy dishes.
Tina Danze is a Dallas freelance writer.