When chef Nilton “Junior” Borges remembers his childhood, he thinks of the shores of Ipanema, where he would amble past volleyball players and sunbathers in string bikinis to a cabana selling simply prepared seafood. He recalls the feeling of powdery sand under his feet with a cold drink in hand while eating fish, prawns, squid and octopus. The best part of the memory is that these experiences were always shared with friends.
“When you’re at the beach, you’re sharing,” Borges says. “It’s an amazing memory of being so connected to the ocean, the simple approach of the cuisine — that’s my inspiration.”
The memory led Borges to add whole grilled octopus ($95) to the menu at his newly opened modern Brazilian restaurant, Meridian, a sleek eatery in the upgraded Village Dallas development. Meridian is the fanciest spot for dinner in the impressive 34-acre project, and Borges believes it’s the only restaurant in the nation serving a menu like his.
“Modern Brazilian cuisine is unique. There is nothing out there quite like this — yet,” he says. “We know the movement is coming to the coasts, but there is nothing like this cuisine in Dallas, for sure.”
To Borges, modern Brazilian means fare that is unique, but also fun, simple, approachable and grounded in nature.
These are the principles he applies to the preparation of the Spanish octopus that’s marinated in chardonnay vinegar, white soy, green garlic and bird’s eye chiles. The marinade is reduced into a vinaigrette that’s brushed on the octopus as it cooks. While so far the vinaigrette and a whole octopus may not seem very “simple,” it’s finished on a wood-fired grill, a method Borges says many chefs are turning to “because it is so primitive.”
The headless mollusk is then plated with some of the vinaigrette and laureled with fronds and vividly colored flower petals from the chef’s garden. The result is a shareable main course dish that “eats light,” as Borges puts it. The end of the tentacles offer the gifts of toasted crunch that come from the grill. The vinaigrette is soft and almost sweet with tangents of heat from the chilies.
The further I worked my way up a tentacle, I expected to encounter the characteristic rubberiness that comes with eating octopus, but I never did. Each bite somehow became more tender, actually. I asked Borges how he pulled off the trick. He says it’s merely due to “proper cooking.” He once worked in a Mediterranean restaurant in New York where octopus was the most ordered thing in the restaurant. “I loved cooking it, and I’ve always loved octopus,” he says.
In addition to being one of the only modern Brazilian restaurants in the country, Meridian is also unique for being one of the few places serving octopus as something beyond an appetizer. Borges’ choice shows his skill level and his devotion to displaying his roots. It also demonstrates his mettle to invite diners on a journey they likely have never had before.
“I want to be unique, a little different, and still approachable,” Borges says.
For diners who want to follow his lead, try the octopus. It’s delicious, and enough to share between four people while leaving plenty of room to sample more appetizers, sides and small plates that all evoke a place and taste amazing.
Meridian is at 5650 Village Glen Drive, Dallas. It opened May 11, 2021. Make reservations on Resy.
