One of the nation’s fastest-growing and happiest cities has cause to be even happier: A new sushi bar with high-end omakase opened in Frisco on Christmas Eve 2022, as first reported by CultureMap.
Kinzo Sushi’s co-owner and executive chef is Leo Kekoa, a former Nobu Dallas chef who has more than 15 years of experience working in sushi restaurants, first in Hawaii, where he was born, and later in South Korea.
Kinzo, which means “neighborhood,” sources about 85% of its fish from Tokyo’s well-known Toyosu Market. Twenty-two bar seats give view to Kekoa and his team preparing Edomae-style sushi, a traditional approach that involves punctiliously pre-treating raw fish with vinegars, sauces, sea salts, and sometimes, a quick boil or blow torching — anything that emphasizes the fundamental taste of the fish, using Japanese ingredients when possible.
Omakase, a multi-course tasting menu chosen by the chef, isn’t common in Frisco, but it’s been increasing in popularity — and price — over the past couple of years. For example, Tatsu opened in Dallas last year with a $170 experience, and the year before that came Shoyo, which started at $175 but raised its tickets to $195 on Jan. 1. The upward swing isn’t exclusive to Dallas, though. In New York, a handful of omakase parlors are making $400 a seat the new norm — before beverages, tax and tip. (The most expensive omakase in the country is currently at three Michelin-starred Masa for $750. Seats at the bar go for $950.)
Perhaps this makes Kinzo’s omakase price of $150 feel fair for residents living in an economic boomtown who possibly don’t want to drive to Dallas for upscale omakase. Kekoa says it’s the lowest he can charge for the 18 to 20 courses he paces out over two hours while making conversation, handling sharp knives, and delivering delicate cuts of sushi.
Omakase seating is limited to six people at 5:30 p.m. and 8 p.m. because, “after six people, you kind of become a machine,” Kekoa says. His goal is to create an intimate encounter where he gives his full attention to learning guests’ habits and preferences, and in time, their families — like his grandfather did as a sushi chef in Oahu, where children and grandchildren became family friends. “It’s a generational thing,” Kekoa says. “I want to build that here.”
The omakase menu changes every two weeks, according to seasons, availability, and the best time to eat each fish. Kekoa asks guests to first trust him before using soy sauce, which is still provided even though it’s completely unnecessary.
Omakase might include crab tartare prepared by draining king crab for 72 hours without ever squeezing it, served with housemade ponzu. A piece of sweet hirami (Japanese turbot) nigiri with truffle salt could follow, then kinmedai (golden eye snapper) with white soy and sprinkles of potent Japanese mustard, called karashi. New Zealand king salmon, the closest thing to liquid salmon, could make an appearance, leading into maguro (bluefin tuna) with black truffle shavings and Russian caviar. Tamago (Japanese omelet) with Texas honey might pave the way to the end, culminating with creme brûlée, green tea mochi, and a marinated Japanese peach.
For those who want to dip into Kinzo’s menu before diving into omakase, many omakase courses are available on the regular menu, along with maki (rolls), yakitori (grilled skewers), and a solid temaki (hand roll) offering. There’s also a mini omakase for $75, and Kekoa plans to develop an omakase for kids and vegetarians, too.
Reflected throughout all of the menu are the three things Kekoa says he takes most seriously: rice, vinegar, and sauces. He makes his sushi rice with Niigata Koshihikari rice from Japan using only bottled water. He spent the first eight weeks at the restaurant finding the perfect combination of the four vinegars he uses to season the rice, which he says is important since nigiri is 80% rice. Kekoa also touts his sauces made slowly, the traditional way. He spends two weeks cooking unagi (eel sauce) over low heat, and omits mirin, which is high in sugar, when he can.
To avoid the stuffiness of a reservation-only restaurant, the remaining 16 seats at the bar are available for walk-ins. Reservations are only necessary for omakase.
Kekoa’s team includes other veteran sushi chefs in Dallas, including 67-year old Chikao Kikuchi, who was the executive chef at Edoko Sushi and Robata in Frisco and came back from retirement to work at Kinzo. Kekoa calls Kikuchi his yoda, and the two sometimes go on motorcycle rides together. Richie Feng, who also previously worked at Nobu, and the youngest member, Jinu Hong, complete the team that Kekoa calls one of the strongest in Dallas — not just for skill, but for relationship.
Kekoa knows reaching Frisco, Little Elm and Prosper is more of a challenge than if he had chosen Uptown for his first restaurant. He calls Uptown “safer, because people are already trained into that omakase scene. It’s like the thing to do — I think it’s a hard thing to do.”
But after he and his wife purchased a house in Frisco, she asked whether Dallas really needed another good sushi restaurant. “Maybe you should try Frisco. Frisco needs good restaurants, too,” she suggested to him.
“So that’s why I’m here,” Kekoa says. “I know it’s gonna take longer, but hopefully, the city of Frisco will feel my passion.”
Kinzo Sushi is located at 14111 King Road, #2100, Frisco. kinzosushi.com.
