One of the distinctive features of the Charles is the unusual, small-production selections on its wine list. These are bottles that Chas Martin hunted down during months in Italy, sometimes buying every case the winery had to offer. A good example is the 2016 Ciprea Pecorino ($14 a glass), a crisp white from the Marche region made from a rare grape variety — pecorino — that’s being coaxed back from near extinction. It makes an ideal partner to one of the most delicious dishes coming from J Chastain’s grill: wood-fired oysters topped with crisp bread crumbs and pepperoni. Six bivalves ($3.50 each) should get you through two glasses. Take a friend.
