Now’s a more exciting time than ever to eat barbecue in Texas, as evidenced by Texas Monthly’s list of the 50 best barbecue joints in the state. But Fort Worth, specifically, has become a meat mecca.
The No. 1 spot on the list is Goldee’s Barbecue, a middle of nowhere restaurant that’s been open less than two years. That high rank might be enough to make you think Fort Worth is the new barbecue capital of Texas.
But wait, there’s more: Panther City BBQ in Fort Worth nabbed the No. 10 spot. Dayne’s Craft Barbecue and Smoke-A-Holics BBQ made it into the top 50.
And ShaneBoy’s Craft Hawaiian Grindz was honored in a Texas Monthly side story about restaurants serving “boundary-breaking ‘que.” Its pulehu, or quick-charred, brisket is the “Hawaiian equivalent of burnt ends,” the magazine wrote. Yum. (It didn’t make it into the top 50, however.)
“There are some barbecue joints in Fort Worth that I really like — really like — that aren’t even making the top 50,” said barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn in an interview last week with The Dallas Morning News. Among those are Heim Barbecue and Derek Allan’s Texas Barbecue, which were honorable mentions, meaning they rank somewhere between No. 51 and 100 in the state.
“I don’t think Fort Worth has gotten into the barbecue consciousness in the same way Houston and Austin have. I think with this list, it’s going to wake a lot of people up,” Vaughn says.
“Fort Worth is where it’s happening right now.”
And let’s just say you’re traveling to Fort Worth from somewhere east. You might as well tack on at least two more D-FW barbecue joints on the drive west on Interstate 30: There’s Zavala’s Barbecue in Grand Prairie and Hurtado Barbecue in Arlington. Both serve barbecue with Mexican or South Texas flavors. Zavala’s serves a Sloppy Juan taco with brisket and pulled pork that’s to die for; Hurtado has Big Red barbacoa tostadas and quesabirria tacos.
Vaughn thinks the Dallas Morning News’ story about Goldee’s, naming it the best new barbecue joint in North Texas in February 2021, sent curious customers to Fort Worth. Goldee’s is now serving “perfect platters of barbecue,” Vaughn says — incredibly high praise for someone who eats barbecue for a living.
The ribs, Lao sausage, cheesy grits and homemade bread at Goldee’s are especially great. But almost everything is excellent, Vaughn and I both agree.
Panther City, which opened in 2018, is another example of Fort Worth barbecue done right. It’s a delightful place to sit in pleasant weather, and it’s very COVID-19 friendly with its big patio and outdoor bar games for adults and busy kids.
Texas Monthly loved Panther City’s sticky-sweet ribs and pork belly poppers. “But the showstopper is the brisket elote,” the article says. “Layers of creamed corn, chopped brisket, queso fresco, cilantro and hot sauce are a full meal in a cup. Don’t miss the borracho beans or the collard greens, and although we’re die-hard banana pudding lovers, we prefer the Nutter Butter cheesecake pudding.”
The theme on Texas Monthly’s list was new, creative talent. Nearly all of the top 50 restaurants need to make great brisket. But there’s more to Texas barbecue than peppery beef, smoked low and slow. Vaughn noted the shift in a story called “Has Texas brisket peaked?” It has. And now we can eat great brisket with a side of so much more: Lao sausage at Goldee’s, blueberry-gouda sausage at Dayne’s, brisket elote from Panther City, barbecue tacos from Zavala’s and Hawaiian food from ShaneBoys.
I can’t help but feel proud that these smart, local newcomers are getting extra credit for their food.
“I think this issue should help give Fort Worth the barbecue respect it deserves,” Vaughn says.
Read more barbecue stories
- Goldee’s Barbecue gets surprising and exciting No. 1 spot on Texas Monthly’s list
- Which Dallas-Fort Worth restaurants got snubbed?
- If you love barbecue, save this link for all of the DMN’s barbecue stories.
